Preliminary identification
Photo reference
1 uploaded photo
Overview
This is a striking mid-century costume jewelry brooch featuring deep cobalt blue molded glass stones, often referred to as 'fruit salad' or 'tutti frutti' stones, set in a rhodium-plated base metal. The design mimics the high-end Cartier precious gemstone jewelry of the 1920s and 30s, accented with sparkling clear rhinestones.
Story
In the 1930s, Cartier took the world by storm with carved Indian gemstones. Trifari brilliantly democratized this look for the American market using molded glass, turning costume jewelry into a highly coveted art form.
Maker / Origin
Trifari was founded by Gustavo Trifari, an Italian immigrant who came to the US in 1904. The company's legendary status was cemented when they hired Alfred Philippe as head designer in 1930. Philippe, who had previously designed fine jewelry for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, brought prestigious fine-jewelry techniques and aesthetics to Trifari's costume lines.
Condition & Value
The brooch appears to be in very good vintage condition with all molded blue glass stones intact. There is some minor aging to the clear rhinestones, which is typical for pieces of this era. Excellent preservation of the rhodium plating keeps the value strong.
Full Research
Sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance pulled from recent auction results.
Build on this identification
Layer in sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance.
Comparable demand stays strongest where maker, originality, and venue confidence line up. Broader examples still trade, but the range tightens quickly when provenance, condition, or selling lane fit is missing.
Best Venue
Specialty auction or a focused dealer with buyers already in this lane.
Signed example with light edge wear and original frame.
Comparable format with stronger provenance and cleaner surface.
Smaller related piece with visible craquelure and trimmed margins.
Period match with softer condition and weaker subject matter.
Close market lane comp with similar material and presentation.