Preliminary identification
Photo reference
1 uploaded photo
Overview
This lush, multi-tiered costume brooch features a large center emerald-cut lavender glass rhinestone surrounded by a halo of iridescent Aurora Borealis accent stones and emerald-cut border stones. The construction reflects mid-century costume jewelry design with heavy prong-setting techniques and dynamic dimension.
Story
In 1955, Swarovski perfected the 'Aurora Borealis' coating with Christian Dior, giving glass rhinestones a shimmering, rainbow-like iridescence. Mid-century jewelers instantly embraced this technique to create theatrical pieces that dazzled under cocktail party lights.
Maker / Origin
During the post-WWII era, high-fashion costume jewelry houses like Kramer, Weiss, Regency, and Juliana (DeLizza & Elster) produced dazzling, unsigned pieces sold on carding or with paper hangtags that were easily lost over time. Master designers employed skilled bench jewellers to hand-set pronged glass stones into complex, layered brass and gold-tone metal constructions.
Condition & Value
The stones appear clear and intact with good foil backings and lively refraction. The prongs look secure with no obvious missing components. Vintage items in bright, unworn condition command higher prices toward the top of the range.
Full Research
Sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance pulled from recent auction results.
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Comparable demand stays strongest where maker, originality, and venue confidence line up. Broader examples still trade, but the range tightens quickly when provenance, condition, or selling lane fit is missing.
Best Venue
Specialty auction or a focused dealer with buyers already in this lane.
Signed example with light edge wear and original frame.
Comparable format with stronger provenance and cleaner surface.
Smaller related piece with visible craquelure and trimmed margins.
Period match with softer condition and weaker subject matter.
Close market lane comp with similar material and presentation.