Preliminary identification
Photo reference
1 uploaded photo
Overview
An exquisite Retro-era floral basket brooch featuring carved glass 'fruit salad' or 'tutti frutti' stones in deep navy, ruby red, and emerald green. Accented with pave-set rhinestones in a rhodium-plated base metal, this piece captures the high-style costume jewelry designs popularized by Alfred Philippe.
Story
During WWII, precious metals were rationed, forcing jewelry designers to innovate. They turned to base metals, rhodium plating, and colorful molded glass to create high-fashion pieces that brought joy and glamour to a somber era.
Maker / Origin
Alfred Philippe, the legendary head designer for Trifari from 1930 to 1968, brought fine jewelry techniques from his time at Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels to the costume jewelry market. His 'Tutti Frutti' designs were heavily inspired by Cartier's famous Indian-style carved gemstone jewelry of the 1920s and 30s.
Condition & Value
The brooch appears to be in very good vintage condition with all carved glass stones intact. Some minor yellowing or dulling of the small pave rhinestones is visible, which is typical for its age. The rhodium plating shows minimal wear. Excellent condition with bright stones commands a premium.
Full Research
Sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance pulled from recent auction results.
Build on this identification
Layer in sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance.
Comparable demand stays strongest where maker, originality, and venue confidence line up. Broader examples still trade, but the range tightens quickly when provenance, condition, or selling lane fit is missing.
Best Venue
Specialty auction or a focused dealer with buyers already in this lane.
Signed example with light edge wear and original frame.
Comparable format with stronger provenance and cleaner surface.
Smaller related piece with visible craquelure and trimmed margins.
Period match with softer condition and weaker subject matter.
Close market lane comp with similar material and presentation.