Preliminary identification

Breitling 17-Jewel Manual Wind Dress Watch

Photo reference

1 uploaded photo

Overview

A classic mid-century Swiss timepiece featuring a textured 'honeycomb' or guilloché outer ring and a 17-jewel manual movement. This watch represents the elegant side of Breitling before they became synonymous almost exclusively with pilot chronographs.

Story

Post-WWII Switzerland saw a boom in precision watchmaking for the everyman. This watch was built for a gentleman who valued reliability over flash. Its 'tropical' patina tells of decades spent in sunlight and humidity, marking a life well-lived.

Maker / Origin

Founded in 1884 by Léon Breitling, the company is legendary for inventing the modern chronograph layout. While famous for the Navitimer, their mid-century dress watches are highly respected by collectors for their robust movements and understated Swiss design.

Condition & Value

The dial shows significant 'spotting' or patina, which some collectors love as 'tropical' character, while others see it as damage. The case shows honest wear and the crystal has light scratching. Heavy patina generally softens the price compared to mint examples.

Full Research

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Sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance pulled from recent auction results.

Build on this identification

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Market Analysis

Comparable demand stays strongest where maker, originality, and venue confidence line up. Broader examples still trade, but the range tightens quickly when provenance, condition, or selling lane fit is missing.

Value Drivers

  • Strong maker attribution with credible period details
  • Better-than-average condition for the category
  • Broader demand rises when presentation and finish feel intact

Concerns

  • Decorative-only demand limits the ceiling
  • Surface wear or missing provenance can compress the range fast
  • Regional sale lanes often underperform specialist venues

Best Venue

Specialty auction or a focused dealer with buyers already in this lane.

Comparable Sales

5 comps
Regional auction· Jun 2024
$1,280

Signed example with light edge wear and original frame.

Dealer archive· Mar 2024
$1,450

Comparable format with stronger provenance and cleaner surface.

Marketplace sale· Jan 2024
$980

Smaller related piece with visible craquelure and trimmed margins.

Estate platform· Oct 2023
$1,150

Period match with softer condition and weaker subject matter.

Auction result· Aug 2023
$1,375

Close market lane comp with similar material and presentation.