Preliminary identification

Vintage Woven Wire Mesh Torque Collar Necklace, c. 1970s–1980s

Photo reference

1 uploaded photo

Overview

A bold, sculptural open-cuff torque necklace crafted from multi-strand woven or braided gold-tone wire ribbons. The graduated lattice structure tapers to smooth bulbous end-caps, typifying the dramatic statement jewelry aesthetic of the late 20th century.

Story

During the 1970s and '80s, jewelers took cues from ancient Celtic torques and Studio Craft metalworking. They transformed industrial wire weaving into ultra-chic, runway-ready power collars that rested weightlessly on the collarbone.

Maker / Origin

While unsigned examples abound, this style was popularized by luxury houses like Tiffany & Co. (via Elsa Peretti's mesh work) and dynamic Italian goldsmiths in Vicenza, as well as American costume jewelry powerhouses like Monet and Napier.

Condition & Value

The woven wire appears intact with no major kinks or breaks, though the metal shows light surface tarnish and minor finish wear on the terminal end-caps. Good vintage condition overall, supporting full mid-market value. Unsigned gold-tone costume mesh chokers typically sell between $40 and $80.

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Market Analysis

Comparable demand stays strongest where maker, originality, and venue confidence line up. Broader examples still trade, but the range tightens quickly when provenance, condition, or selling lane fit is missing.

Value Drivers

  • ▲ Strong maker attribution with credible period details
  • ▲ Better-than-average condition for the category
  • ▲ Broader demand rises when presentation and finish feel intact

Concerns

  • ▼ Decorative-only demand limits the ceiling
  • ▼ Surface wear or missing provenance can compress the range fast
  • ▼ Regional sale lanes often underperform specialist venues

Best Venue

Specialty auction or a focused dealer with buyers already in this lane.

Comparable Sales

5 comps
Regional auction· Jun 2024
$1,280

Signed example with light edge wear and original frame.

Dealer archive· Mar 2024
$1,450

Comparable format with stronger provenance and cleaner surface.

Marketplace sale· Jan 2024
$980

Smaller related piece with visible craquelure and trimmed margins.

Estate platform· Oct 2023
$1,150

Period match with softer condition and weaker subject matter.

Auction result· Aug 2023
$1,375

Close market lane comp with similar material and presentation.