Preliminary identification

Vintage Saphiret or Satin Glass & Aurora Borealis Rhinestone Brooch, c. 1950s

Photo reference

5 uploaded photos

Overview

A striking mid-century costume jewelry brooch featuring deep garnet-red frosted glass marquise cabochons alongside iridescent Aurora Borealis rhinestones. Set in layered pronged gold-tone metal, this piece highlights the glamorous 1950s obsession with dimensional theatrical sparkle.

Story

Swarovski introduced the shimmering Aurora Borealis coating in 1955 alongside Christian Dior. Jewelry makers instantly paired these iridescent stones with warm, frosted glass cabochons to create hypnotic, multidimensional light effects for evening wear.

Maker / Origin

While unsigned, the open-backed claw settings, layered construction, and rolled pinstem pin mechanism are characteristic of mid-century makers like Regency, DeLizza & Elster (Juliana), or high-end Czechoslovakian exporters who produced quality costume pieces for department stores.

Condition & Value

Appears to be in very good vintage condition with bright plating and secure prongs. The pin stem and rollover safety clasp on the brooch back are intact. Minor surface lint present, but no missing stones or heavy verdigris visible.

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Market Analysis

Comparable demand stays strongest where maker, originality, and venue confidence line up. Broader examples still trade, but the range tightens quickly when provenance, condition, or selling lane fit is missing.

Value Drivers

  • Strong maker attribution with credible period details
  • Better-than-average condition for the category
  • Broader demand rises when presentation and finish feel intact

Concerns

  • Decorative-only demand limits the ceiling
  • Surface wear or missing provenance can compress the range fast
  • Regional sale lanes often underperform specialist venues

Best Venue

Specialty auction or a focused dealer with buyers already in this lane.

Comparable Sales

5 comps
Regional auction· Jun 2024
$1,280

Signed example with light edge wear and original frame.

Dealer archive· Mar 2024
$1,450

Comparable format with stronger provenance and cleaner surface.

Marketplace sale· Jan 2024
$980

Smaller related piece with visible craquelure and trimmed margins.

Estate platform· Oct 2023
$1,150

Period match with softer condition and weaker subject matter.

Auction result· Aug 2023
$1,375

Close market lane comp with similar material and presentation.