Preliminary identification

Mid-Century Star Sapphire and Gilt Foliate Brooch

Photo reference

1 uploaded photo

Overview

A striking mid-century brooch featuring three cabochon-cut star sapphires set within an intricate, two-tone foliate design. The piece utilizes textured gold-tone metal and polished silver-tone accents to create a sense of movement and organic flow characteristic of post-war botanical jewelry.

Story

Post-WWII fashion exploded with botanical motifs as a symbol of renewal. These star sapphires were prized for their 'asterism,' a celestial light effect that made every piece of jewelry feel like it held a captive star.

Maker / Origin

While unsigned, this piece reflects the high-quality 'boutique' costume jewelry tradition of the mid-20th century. Makers like Trifari or Marcel Boucher often produced similar unsigned 'jobber' pieces for high-end department stores, focusing on sculptural depth and stone quality over branding.

Condition & Value

The brooch appears to be in very good vintage condition with no visible loss to the plating. The stones seem securely set, though a jeweler should check the prongs. Excellent preservation of the two-tone finish maintains its market value. Value is driven by the 'star' quality of the sapphires and the two-tone design.

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Sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance pulled from recent auction results.

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Market Analysis

Comparable demand stays strongest where maker, originality, and venue confidence line up. Broader examples still trade, but the range tightens quickly when provenance, condition, or selling lane fit is missing.

Value Drivers

  • Strong maker attribution with credible period details
  • Better-than-average condition for the category
  • Broader demand rises when presentation and finish feel intact

Concerns

  • Decorative-only demand limits the ceiling
  • Surface wear or missing provenance can compress the range fast
  • Regional sale lanes often underperform specialist venues

Best Venue

Specialty auction or a focused dealer with buyers already in this lane.

Comparable Sales

5 comps
Regional auction· Jun 2024
$1,280

Signed example with light edge wear and original frame.

Dealer archive· Mar 2024
$1,450

Comparable format with stronger provenance and cleaner surface.

Marketplace sale· Jan 2024
$980

Smaller related piece with visible craquelure and trimmed margins.

Estate platform· Oct 2023
$1,150

Period match with softer condition and weaker subject matter.

Auction result· Aug 2023
$1,375

Close market lane comp with similar material and presentation.