Preliminary identification
Photo reference
4 uploaded photos
Overview
This is an iconic Must de Cartier Tank wristwatch featuring a gold-plated sterling silver (vermeil) case and a rare vertical Roman numeral 'railway' dial layout. Introduced in the late 1970s, the Must de Cartier line democratized luxury watchmaking by combining classic Cartier aesthetics with vermeil cases and quartz movements.
Story
In 1977, Cartier launched the 'Must' collection to save luxury watchmaking during the Quartz Crisis. By placing 18k gold over solid sterling silver, they created an accessible icon worn by artists and film stars alike.
Maker / Origin
Founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the house earned the moniker 'the jeweler of kings and the king of jewelers.' The Tank watch, designed by Louis Cartier in 1917, was inspired by the rectangular tracks of military tanks on the Western Front.
Condition & Value
The watch appears well-preserved with light surface scratching on the case back and minor plating wear on the case edges. The dial displays slight age-related patina or 'spidering', which is very common for vintage Cartier lacquer dials. Comes with original box and paper insert.
Full Research
Sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance pulled from recent auction results.
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Comparable demand stays strongest where maker, originality, and venue confidence line up. Broader examples still trade, but the range tightens quickly when provenance, condition, or selling lane fit is missing.
Best Venue
Specialty auction or a focused dealer with buyers already in this lane.
Signed example with light edge wear and original frame.
Comparable format with stronger provenance and cleaner surface.
Smaller related piece with visible craquelure and trimmed margins.
Period match with softer condition and weaker subject matter.
Close market lane comp with similar material and presentation.