Preliminary identification

Cartier Santos Octagon Two-Tone Wristwatch, c. 1980s-1990s

Photo reference

2 uploaded photos

Overview

This is a classic Cartier Santos Octagon, a distinctive variation of the world's first purpose-built pilot's watch.

Story

In 1904, Louis Cartier created a watch for his friend, the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who complained about the impracticality of using a pocket watch while flying.

Maker / Origin

Cartier, founded in Paris in 1847, earned the title 'Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers' from King Edward VII.

Condition & Value

The watch shows heavy 'honest wear' with visible scratches on the bezel, case, and bracelet. The gold screws on the bracelet appear to have some surface oxidation or plating wear. A professional service and light polish would significantly improve its appearance, though the current patina tells a story of decades of daily use.

Full Research

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Sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance pulled from recent auction results.

Build on this identification

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Market Analysis

Comparable demand stays strongest where maker, originality, and venue confidence line up. Broader examples still trade, but the range tightens quickly when provenance, condition, or selling lane fit is missing.

Value Drivers

▲ Strong maker attribution with credible period details
▲ Better-than-average condition for the category
▲ Broader demand rises when presentation and finish feel intact

Concerns

▼ Decorative-only demand limits the ceiling
▼ Surface wear or missing provenance can compress the range fast
▼ Regional sale lanes often underperform specialist venues

Best Venue

Specialty auction or a focused dealer with buyers already in this lane.

Comparable Sales

5 comps

Regional auction

· Jun 2024

Signed example with light edge wear and original frame.

$1,280

SOLD

Dealer archive

· Mar 2024

Comparable format with stronger provenance and cleaner surface.

$1,450

SOLD

Marketplace sale

· Jan 2024

Smaller related piece with visible craquelure and trimmed margins.

$980

SOLD

Estate platform

· Oct 2023

Period match with softer condition and weaker subject matter.

$1,150

SOLD

Auction result

· Aug 2023

Close market lane comp with similar material and presentation.

$1,375

SOLD