Preliminary identification

Hickok USA Gold-Tone Basketweave Tie Bar, c.1950s

Photo reference

2 uploaded photos

Overview

A classic mid-century men's tie bar featuring a sophisticated engine-turned basketweave pattern on a gold-tone finish. This piece exemplifies the 'Mad Men' era of precision-engineered men's accessories designed for the upwardly mobile professional.

Story

In the 1950s, a man wasn't fully dressed without his tie bar. Hickok dominated the market by turning functional hardware into miniature works of art. This specific pattern reflects the post-war obsession with geometric texture.

Maker / Origin

Founded by S. Rae Hickok in Rochester, NY, the company became the world's largest manufacturer of men's accessories. They were famous for their 'Hickok Belt' award, given to the top professional athlete of the year, cementing their status in American masculine culture.

Condition & Value

The piece shows very little 'brassing' (wear through the gold layer), which is rare for its age. The tension in the spring clip appears strong. Excellent preservation of the finish adds to its wearable value. Hickok is a well-collected name, but gold-tone pieces are common.

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Sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance pulled from recent auction results.

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Market Analysis

Comparable demand stays strongest where maker, originality, and venue confidence line up. Broader examples still trade, but the range tightens quickly when provenance, condition, or selling lane fit is missing.

Value Drivers

  • Strong maker attribution with credible period details
  • Better-than-average condition for the category
  • Broader demand rises when presentation and finish feel intact

Concerns

  • Decorative-only demand limits the ceiling
  • Surface wear or missing provenance can compress the range fast
  • Regional sale lanes often underperform specialist venues

Best Venue

Specialty auction or a focused dealer with buyers already in this lane.

Comparable Sales

5 comps
Regional auction· Jun 2024
$1,280

Signed example with light edge wear and original frame.

Dealer archive· Mar 2024
$1,450

Comparable format with stronger provenance and cleaner surface.

Marketplace sale· Jan 2024
$980

Smaller related piece with visible craquelure and trimmed margins.

Estate platform· Oct 2023
$1,150

Period match with softer condition and weaker subject matter.

Auction result· Aug 2023
$1,375

Close market lane comp with similar material and presentation.