Preliminary identification

Graduated Cultured Akoya Pearl Necklace with 'Naomi' Clasp, c. 1950s

Photo reference

5 uploaded photos

Overview

A classic mid-century graduated strand of cultured Akoya pearls, tapering elegantly from a larger central pearl to smaller pearls near the clasp. The necklace is secured with a vintage sterling silver filigree fishhook clasp stamped with the maker's mark 'NAOMI'.

Story

Post-WWII Japan saw a massive boom in pearl exports, transforming these ocean gems into the ultimate mid-century status symbol. This strand represents the classic 'coming of age' gift given to young women in the 1950s.

Maker / Origin

The clasp is marked 'NAOMI', a brand of the Naomi Jewelry Manufacturing Co. based in Island Park, New York, which was highly active in the mid-20th century producing quality findings, clasps, and jewelry components for the American market. The pearls themselves are classic Japanese Akoyas, which dominated the global market during this era.

Condition & Value

The pearls exhibit a warm, creamy body color with rose overtones and good luster, showing minor natural surface blemishes. The silk thread shows slight stretching near the clasp, which is typical for vintage strands; restringing is recommended for secure wear. The clasp shows light tarnish consistent with age.

Full Research

See what it's actually worth.

Sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance pulled from recent auction results.

Build on this identification

Layer in sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance.

Market Analysis

Comparable demand stays strongest where maker, originality, and venue confidence line up. Broader examples still trade, but the range tightens quickly when provenance, condition, or selling lane fit is missing.

Value Drivers

  • Strong maker attribution with credible period details
  • Better-than-average condition for the category
  • Broader demand rises when presentation and finish feel intact

Concerns

  • Decorative-only demand limits the ceiling
  • Surface wear or missing provenance can compress the range fast
  • Regional sale lanes often underperform specialist venues

Best Venue

Specialty auction or a focused dealer with buyers already in this lane.

Comparable Sales

5 comps
Regional auction· Jun 2024
$1,280

Signed example with light edge wear and original frame.

Dealer archive· Mar 2024
$1,450

Comparable format with stronger provenance and cleaner surface.

Marketplace sale· Jan 2024
$980

Smaller related piece with visible craquelure and trimmed margins.

Estate platform· Oct 2023
$1,150

Period match with softer condition and weaker subject matter.

Auction result· Aug 2023
$1,375

Close market lane comp with similar material and presentation.