Preliminary identification

Vintage Longines Caliber 23ZS Dress Watch, c. 1956

Photo reference

5 uploaded photos

Overview

This is an elegant mid-century Longines dress watch powered by the celebrated manual-wind Caliber 23ZS movement. Housed in a 10K gold-filled case with bold stylized Arabic numerals on a dramatic dark dial, it represents the golden age of Swiss mechanical watchmaking for the American market.

Story

Manufactured around 1956 with serial number 10221680, this Swiss movement crossed the Atlantic to be cased in New York by Longines-Wittnauer, avoiding heavy luxury import tariffs of the post-war era.

Maker / Origin

Founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, Longines holds the oldest unchanged registered trademark in continuous use with its winged hourglass logo. Renowned for its precision timing in aviation and sports, the brand was a formidable competitor to Omega and Rolex throughout the mid-20th century.

Condition & Value

The movement appears remarkably clean and intact with visible jewel caps. The inside caseback shows multiple historic watchmaker service scratch marks, indicating regular maintenance over its lifetime.

Full Research

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Sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance pulled from recent auction results.

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Market Analysis

Comparable demand stays strongest where maker, originality, and venue confidence line up. Broader examples still trade, but the range tightens quickly when provenance, condition, or selling lane fit is missing.

Value Drivers

  • ▲ Strong maker attribution with credible period details
  • ▲ Better-than-average condition for the category
  • ▲ Broader demand rises when presentation and finish feel intact

Concerns

  • ▼ Decorative-only demand limits the ceiling
  • ▼ Surface wear or missing provenance can compress the range fast
  • ▼ Regional sale lanes often underperform specialist venues

Best Venue

Specialty auction or a focused dealer with buyers already in this lane.

Comparable Sales

5 comps
Regional auction· Jun 2024
$1,280

Signed example with light edge wear and original frame.

Dealer archive· Mar 2024
$1,450

Comparable format with stronger provenance and cleaner surface.

Marketplace sale· Jan 2024
$980

Smaller related piece with visible craquelure and trimmed margins.

Estate platform· Oct 2023
$1,150

Period match with softer condition and weaker subject matter.

Auction result· Aug 2023
$1,375

Close market lane comp with similar material and presentation.