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Identification

Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil Wristwatch, Roman Dial

Photo reference

3 uploaded photos

Overview

Identification is confirmed by clear, correct case back engravings including 'Cartier Paris', the '925' silver hallmark, 'ARGENT', and 'PLAQUE OR G 20 M' (indicating 20-micron gold plating over silver, known as vermeil).

Story

Launched in 1977, the 'Les Must de Cartier' collection was a revolutionary step for the historic maison, utilizing gold-plated sterling silver (vermeil) to offer luxury at a more accessible price point. This line is widely credited with revitalizing Cartier's market presence during the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 1980s. The secondary market for vintage Must de Cartier Tanks remains highly active, driven by collectors and fashion enthusiasts seeking accessible entry points into Cartier's iconic design lineage.

Maker / Origin

Cartier

Condition & Value

Based on the provided details, the watch retains its correct dial configuration, signature blue cabochon crown, and clear case back hallmarks. However, critical value-dependent factors—such as the integrity of the 20-micron gold plating on the lug edges, the mechanical health of the movement, and the presence of an original Cartier buckle—remain unverified. The case shows minor surface scratches and slight wear to the gold plating near the edges, which is typical for vintage vermeil. The dial appears clean, and the sapphire cabochon crown is intact.

Full Research

See what it's actually worth.

Sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance pulled from recent auction results.

Market Analysis

The secondary market for vintage Must de Cartier Tanks remains highly active, driven by collectors and fashion enthusiasts seeking accessible entry points into Cartier's iconic design lineage. Classic Roman numeral dials with rail-track minutes are particularly liquid, often outperforming plain or brightly colored variants. Buyers strongly prefer the LM (Large Model) over the SM (Small Model) due to modern sizing trends, with manual-wind examples carrying a slight purist premium over quartz.

Value Drivers

▲ Classic Roman numeral dial with inner rail-track minute scale, representing the most desirable standard configuration.

▲ Clear, correct case back hallmarks confirming the 925 silver and 20-micron gold plating (vermeil).

▲ Presence of the signature blue sapphire cabochon crown and blued steel sword hands.

Concerns

▼ Unverified case size — confirmation as an SM (Small Model) rather than an LM (Large Model) anchors the value to the lower end of the range.

▼ Unverified movement type and running condition — non-running watches or those needing immediate service require a $300-$500 deduction.

▼ Unverified state of the vermeil plating — heavy rubbing or silver showing through on the lug edges significantly impacts collector value.

▼ Unknown original accessories — missing the original Cartier buckle or box removes the 'full set' premium.

Best Venue

Determine the exact case dimensions (width excluding crown) and movement type (manual vs. quartz) to pinpoint the value. If confirmed as an LM size in running condition, consider listing on dedicated watch enthusiast platforms or Chrono24 with a target of $1,800–$2,000. If it is an SM size, adjust expectations to the $1,300–$1,500 range.

Upside Potential

If the watch is confirmed as an LM (Large Model) with a recently serviced manual-wind movement, and includes the original Cartier deployant clasp or tang buckle, the value shifts toward the $2,200–$2,600 collector tier.

Authenticity Risk

medium

Vintage Must de Cartier Tanks are highly replicated and frequently assembled using aftermarket parts (such as redialed faces or replaced crowns). Authentication of the movement is recommended prior to a high-value sale.

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Also found — market-range context

Related comps outside the valuation band· 2 comps

Surfaced during research but not used to anchor the valuation — wrong form, species, era, or no published price. Shown so the market range around this item is visible.

  • Tajan via Collector Square· 2023-07-11
    CARTIER,TANK MUST. REF. 02598.,Montre bracelet en vermeil sur cuir
    Link could not be verified.
    $2,449
  • Watch Auctions
    Must de Cartier Tank silver-gilt lady's wristwatch, ref. 3 081119
    Excerpt describes completely different watches (Audemars Piguet), indicating a bad scrape.
    $660