Identification
Photo reference
2 uploaded photos
Overview
This is a classic 'Crown Trifari' necklace featuring a sophisticated interlocking crescent link design in a rich gold-tone finish. Designed by the legendary Alfred Philippe, it represents the height of American costume jewelry elegance from the post-war era.
Story
Designed by former Cartier jeweler Alfred Philippe, this 1950 Crown Trifari collar necklace embodies the post-WWII American push to democratize high-end glamour.
Maker / Origin
Trifari, Krussman & Fishel dominated the mid-century American costume jewelry market, famously utilizing their proprietary 'Trifanium' alloy to replicate the look of gold-tone metal (untested) and untested metal.
Condition & Value
Because the intrinsic metal value is nil, pristine factory-bright plating preserves the $60 high-end value, while any brassing or stretched links immediately drops the piece to a $30 baseline.
Full Research
Sold comps, value drivers, and venue guidance pulled from recent auction results.
Because this item lacks verifiable precious-metal fineness hallmarks, its intrinsic material melt value is zero; the valuation is entirely dependent on the 'Crown Trifari' designer premium and the Alfred Philippe patent association. While premier auction house direct comparables are sparse (0/3) for this specific mass-produced base-metal design, secondary marketplace realized sales (eBay, Etsy) provide a highly consistent, market-informed dataset. Exact patent match (156994) sold transactions strictly tier by condition: pieces with worn plating or stretched links clear at $28 to $30, while excellent-condition variants consistently sell for $55 to $60. Retail asking prices on platforms like Poshmark sometimes exceed $100 for pristine examples, but realized sold data confirms an auction-realistic ceiling of $60 for an isolated collar necklace without matching suite components.
▲ Confirmed United States design patent (D156,994) attributing the work to legendary designer Alfred Philippe
▲ Presence of the highly collectible mid-century 'Crown' Trifari hallmark on the clasp
▲ Complex articulated crescent/pretzel link construction that mimics fine jewelry draping
▲ Historical association with post-WWII American fashion and the 'New Look' aesthetic
▼ Unverified base metal construction yields zero intrinsic melt value
▼ Susceptibility to 'brassing' (loss of gold-tone plating) and verdigris on high-contact points
▼ Potential for stretched links or a weakened fold-over clasp due to standard vintage wear
▼ Mass-produced open-run nature of the item limits the high-end secondary market ceiling
Best Venue
Online vintage fashion marketplaces (Etsy, eBay, Ruby Lane) where mid-century American costume jewelry has a dedicated, active collector base.
Upside Potential
Securing matching earrings or a bracelet (creating a 'parure' or suite) from the same 156994 patent line would exponentially multiply the desirability and final valuation.
Authenticity Notice
Risk Level: Medium. High-demand designer marks like Crown Trifari are occasionally reproduced. Verification requires confirming the distinct 'T' with a crown above it, alongside the exact 'PAT. 156994' stamping on the fold-over clasp. The physical construction must precisely match the articulated linkages outlined in the January 1950 United States Patent Office filing.